Taj Mahal

Our guide books says it's a 2 and a half hour train ride to see the famous Taj Mahal - it took us 11. We climbed/shoved/pushed our way onto the train (when it eventually arrived) but people just kept coming. Being white was a huge advantage in the rural station as we were looked after and heaved up to the top level to sit. We were bent over and crammed in looking down on the people standing below. There were no gaps between the people - they were simply piled on top of each other. One man said to us "this is the real India" - o kidding.

The Taj Mahal was every bit as impressive as you imagine. The gigantic marble buildings surrounded by green gardens look just like the postcards and up close the detailed carving really is beautiful. After the Taj we walked along the river past the burning ghats where we saw so many bodies being carried on wooden stretchers to be burnt and sent out to the polluted water. It didn't seem sad just very calm and quiet in comparison to the surrounding streets.

We also went to see the huge red Agra fort which boasted more marble designs and lush gardens where we could relax when the sun peeped through. We wondered the streets and manic bazaars selling everything from pots to paan and potatoes - Glen even got a cut throat shave.

We ate breakfast on a rooftop each morning sitting in the sun with a view of the Taj where we were waited on by two gorgeous kids - it was like a scene from Bugsy Malone.